High Mountain Green

头采黑苞山炒青

Harvest
April 5, 2022

Origin
Hualong Village, Heibaoshan, E'Mei, Sichuan

There is a mythical mountain in Sichuan province. For many people, it is a household name that, when spoken, evokes an air of the otherworldly. This place is called E’Mei 峨眉. 

There are four sacred buddhist mountains in China, E’Mei being one of them, and the highest peak. It is home to more than seventy ancient temples and is regarded by Buddhists as the place of enlightenment. Many people will know it for the well established community of monkeys that reside amongst the temples and engage with visitors of the mountain. 

Tea cultivation on E’Mei dates back to the Tang Dynasty, when fresh teas from its peak were delivered to the imperial palace as Tribute Teas to the Emperor. Our High Mountain Green comes from Heibao Mountain, near Haulong Village at upwards of 3200 ft above sea level. This area, central to E’Mei, is the primary area for producing tea on this mountain – almost all the tea gardens here consist of old tea trees, planted generations ago.

The soil in Heibao is formed from porous volcanic ash, providing ideal minerals and drainage for tea trees. The elevation means that Haulong Village and the surrounding area is nearly always covered in rain or fog. It is a place that, while feeling quite unchanged, has some enchanting adaptations. 20 years ago many fruit trees were planted in and around the tea gardens here. Now the tea grows in the dappled shade of fragrant loquat and peach trees. However unusual this is, the tea benefits from their proximity, and is said to smell like flowers on account of it. 

This tea is made from leaves from the first picking of the season, consisting of one bud and two leaves. This results in a richer taste – in this case, deep in flavours reminiscent of flowers and seeds – which is in line with local preference. Regionally, this tea is simply referred to as 炒青  “pan-fried green.”

In the gaiwan High Mountain Green appears dark emerald and tightly bound, before unwinding in the water into spindly, pale green leaves. This quick transformation is in line with the energy it brings with it: it is articulate, and without hesitation. 

Brewing guide