Silk Chrysanthemum

有机蚕丝杭白菊

Harvest
November 2020

Origin
Tongxiang, Zhejiang

Silk Chrysanthemum is a product born out of love and respect for traditions, heritage, and nature. It is an embodiment of everything that Cultivate stands for: passionate artisans, heirloom varietals with history, biodynamic and natural farming methods, and craftsmanship adhering to traditions and cultures that have been passed down for generations.

Silk chrysanthemum is a traditional heirloom varietal of chrysanthemum called Hangbai 杭白菊, from the small county of Tongxiang in Zhejiang Province. This particular varietal has been cultivated for more than 380 years, and it is regarded as one of Zhejiang Province’s 'Intangible Cultural Heritage' items.

This incredibly precious chrysanthemum is produced by a young couple, Mei Yuhui ("Mei") and Yu Jiangang (“Yu”). 

Mei and Yu's desire to preserve the heritage and traditions of the countryside led them to leave their corporate jobs in Beijing and return to their hometown years ago. Their family have been silk farmers for generations before them, and it has always been their dream to start a farm as well.

Through conversations with friends, they realized that authentic and traditional Hangbai chrysanthemum were disappearing from the market; and of the very few farms that still produce it, none of them followed organic farming methods.

In 2017, they decided to have a micro-farm dedicated to growing traditional Hangbai chrysanthemum following biodynamic and natural farming methods, and traditional processing methods. They named their chrysanthemum “Silk Chrysanthemum”, for it was as precious as the silk their family had crafted for generations.

The first challenge in their journey came very early on. They discovered that no one in the village had any seeds of the heirloom traditional chrysanthemum—the varietal had gradually disappeared more than 10 years ago!

One of the reasons for this disappearance is that the farming of Hangbai chrysanthemum is extremely labour-intensive. As an annual herb, the chrysanthemum plant requires transplanting and propagation by stem cutting every year, as well as weeding and harvesting. The traditional processing of Hangbai chrysanthemum also required complicated techniques that require time, such as small-batch steaming and low-temperature baking. Many villagers, seeking a higher income, went on to work in the textile industry. As a result, the chrysanthemum-making traditions that had lasted for over 300 years, quietly disappeared.

In 2018, through pure chance, they discovered that a childhood friend had been growing a few Hangbai chrysanthemum in their family garden.

That was the humble beginnings of their quarter-of-an-acre Hangbai chrysanthemum farm.

To Mei and Yu, their Silk Chrysanthemum is defined by a few key characteristics. Firstly, it is a heirloom varietal of the Hangbai chrysanthemum plant from the unique terroir of Tongxiang County of Zhejiang Province. Secondly, their biodynamic and natural farming methods. No pesticides, herbicides, or chemical fertilizers are used in the planting process. Sheep and silkworm manure is used as nutrients for the soil, as well as leaf mulch. Lastly, the chrysanthemum is crafted using traditional processing methods of steaming and baking over charcoal. No sulphur is ever used.

2019 was the first year of planting and harvesting at their young micro-farm. The planting season started in April of that year. The chrysanthemum plants staggered through the rainy season, enduring frequent typhoons until November when the flowering season finally began. In just two short weeks, the harvest must be completed before the frost. After an entire year of hard work, the yield was a mere 15 kilograms.

Each chrysanthemum flower is harvested carefully by hand in the morning. At night, they are processed using a centuries-old traditional steaming method. Wood from local camphor trees are used to start a fire. Micro-batches of 100 grams of fresh chrysanthemum are placed inside handwoven bamboo baskets, and steamed for 4 to 5 minutes over the fire. They are then baked for 4 to 6 hours to remove any remaining moisture. A final round of baking after 2 to 3 days dries the flowers thoroughly.

The chrysanthemum naturally form into a “cake” after steaming. Vibrantly yellow like rays of the sun, the flowers are strikingly beautiful.

It yield a brilliant fluorescent yellow cup and unforgettably sweet infusions. It is like drinking a fine consommé with layers and richness that envelops the palate.

Brewing guide