Osmanthus Laoshan Green

Osmanthus flowers are extremely ephemeral. Their trees bloom for two weeks in October, once every year. In a village nestled within the cliffs of Mount Lao, an area to which Osmanthus trees are indigenous, this is an unmistakable event. The tiny blossoms fall almost as soon as they have opened, covering the ground in a tangerine coloured snow, while the area is filled with the incredibly sweet smell of the flowers. There are only three days during which they may be harvested and still retain their scent. During this time grandmothers in the village collect them by hand, as they have for generations.

Tea leaves have long been known for their remarkable capacity to absorb and preserve the scent of flowers. However, successfully scenting tea leaves is tedious and depends on processes perfected over centuries. The craft began in the Southern Song Dynasty, over a thousand years ago. It requires a careful understanding of the ratio of flower to tea, and several rounds of infusions to achieve a lasting transfer of the flower's otherwise fleeting scent.

Mr. Tang's family, who crafts this tea, is known for their skill with traditional scenting, as well as for the beautiful location of their tea farm. The many small plots that make up their farm are scattered along the ocean, at the foot of Mount Lao. There is a great peace that settles over this area of Laoshan and the tranquility of Mr. Tang's tea farm extends between its many parts. Here, the smell of the ocean gives way to red pines, overlayed with the scent of green plum from their orchards.

The tea leaves are harvested by Mr. Tang's mother and grandmother, then scented by his uncle. After scenting, the flowers and the tea are packaged together. When we prepare this tea the tiny flowers dance in the water, much like they did as they fell from the trees. While they appear separate, the scenting process has caused the osmanthus and the Laoshan green to become one single, indistinguishable flavour.

Just looking at this tea will warm your heart; the fine spindles of Laoshan tea peppered with the tiny, burnt orange osmanthus flowers. It smells intensely like candy, but its taste is very clearing and subtle, finishing with just a touch of sweetness. We notice this is a quality shared by many Autumn teas: it is as though they have come to rinse us, and ready us for Winter's retreat.