Autumn Tieguanyin

正秋铁观音

Harvest
October 2024

Origin
Shimen Village, Gande, Anxi Fujian

Tieguanyin: quite possibly the most famous oolong in the world, and yet, one that Cultivate has never carried. The reason for this is simply that, amidst such a saturated market, we have never found an example of this popular tea that is traditionally crafted, and that we absolutely love – that is, until now!  

Everything happens in its own time, and we are at long last able to share with you an Autumn Tieguanyin we are thrilled by. It comes to us from Shimen Village, in Gande, Anxi at 3200 ft elevation; the most famous region for Tieguanyin in the world. It is crafted by Master Wu Xiaoquan, now in his late seventies, who has been crafting tea for over 5 decades, and whose family has lived in Shimen for generations. 

This authentic Tieguanyin is from a very small batch that he specially crafted for Cultivate. The leaves are from Master Wu’s personal tea garden, where the tea trees are roughly 20 years old, which is considered “old grove” in this region. They were harvested on October 18, 2024. 

The vast majority of modern Tieguanyin is produced from young tea trees and tastes much like a very floral green tea. We requested that Master Wu follow traditional methods of craftsmanship for this Tieguanyin, meaning the leaves would be allowed to oxidize for a longer period of time, and would see four rounds of “bruising,” before being slowly baked over charcoal. 

The quality of the tea that Master Wu has produced is truly amazing, so much so that we take no issue with having had to wait 10 years to acquire it. The leaves are a deep, mottled rust colour that glow as soon as they touch water. The liquor they brew is crystal clear and tinted a rich, golden hue. The tea has an elegant orchid fragrance held by the clean scent of charcoal. 

The sensation of drinking this tea is so wild: it seems to open inside our mouths like an alien species of flower. We taste it in the middle of the tongue first, and then it blooms, touching every part of the palate. The striking clarity of the liquor foreshadows the clarity of its taste. None of its charcoal notes weigh it down, instead, it expands and expands –  as light as it is heavy, as forward as it is backward.

We can’t think of a tea we have tasted where the varietal, the terroir and the craftsmanship are so balanced we can not contemplate them as separate things when we taste it. For this Autumn Tieguanyin the sum is far greater than its parts. 

Experiencing this tea has made it clear to us why Tieguanyin is one of the most prized and well known oolongs in the world. It has been a rewarding lesson in “never say never” for Cultivate that has left us smiling.

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Brewing guide