Semi Wild Baiya Qilan

The buds of Baiya Qilan trees famously give off the scent of orchids, and are such a pale green, they appear white. The varietal was named during the Ming Dynasty by Chen Yuanhe, son of the emperor, who was amazed to find these unique trees growing deep within the mountains of Fujian.

Baiya Qilan's remote origin has meant that its cultivation and crafting has not been influenced by popular tastes that influence present day tea production. This one, crafted by tea veteran Chen Huoping, is a perfect example. A native to Pengxi Village, Chen once worked in the research department of the Pengxi County Tea Company, before devoting himself to crafting tea.

When we visited Chen at his family home he wanted us to see his highest elevation tea gardens, but on account of the heavy rain that day we never made it. There are no roads for cars or motorcycles to these tea gardens, and the hills are very steep to climb on foot.

This tea comes from semi-wild trees that grow slightly lower, at 2,200 ft elevation. Chen explained that, as he got older, he gave up on making "uninteresting tea." For him this meant combining the traditional hand-picking of wild leaves, manual bruising, hand rolling, and slow roasting over lychee charcoal. When crafting tea this way the cost is much higher, and the yield is lower, but this, he says, is what makes it interesting.

We have to agree with Chen; this is a very captivating oolong. The leaves thicken the water, causing its soft, floral fragrance to spread slowly and evenly across the palate. Its very distinct orchid notes are complimented by a complex minerality that gives way to a sweet, sustained aftertaste. It slows our enjoyment of it, and offers much to consider.