Golden Cassia

Together with Tieguanyin (Iron Goddess of Mercy), Maoxie, Meizhan, and Buddha's Hand, Golden Cassia is one of the key indigenous varietals of oolong in Southern Fujian. Anxi is a mountainous region: there are 2943 mountain peaks here that measure above over 3000 ft in elevation, and tea cultivation here dates back more than two thousand years, to the Northern Song Dynasty.

Anxi's subtropical marine climate brings temperate weather across all seasons and consistent precipitation, ideal for tea trees. The lateritic red soil here, formed by the weathering of the dense rocky terrain, is also very well suited for the growth of tea trees, and is extremely high in minerals like iron and aluminum.

Meizhuang Village in Anxi, Fujian is one of three villages where Golden Cassia originates from. Its fresh buds are tinted yellow, and the trees are known for their osmanthus-like fragrance. The Chinese name for Golden Cassia is 黄金桂. The first character means "yellow," the second "gold," and the third, "osmanthus."

Whether or not you are familiar with this varietal will depend on where you live. It has long been most common for Golden Cassia from Meizhuang Village to be exported to Japanese and Southeast Asian markets, and is much less common elsewhere in the world.

This Golden Cassia is crafted by Master Lin Zhenwen, a generational tea farmer of Meizhuang Village. He is one of the few "old masters" in the village, known for having the highest skill at crafting oolong. Master Lin crafts his Golden Cassia using the traditional regional method: the tea sees 4 rounds of "yaoqing," (bruising) followed by slow-fired charcoal roasting.

It is beautiful to watch the leaves open in the gaiwan, like crumpled pages that tell the story of their making: they are marked with varying colours by the bruising process, and creased by the constriction that came from their roasting. This oolong has a deep, warm and floral fragrance while its taste is gentle and sweet. It is enveloping, while still being very light on the palate.